Malaysia

Tea Paradise - Cameron Highlands

BOH Tea plantation

We are pretty sure that you have already heard about the crazy way of driving in SE Asia. Well, after a few fantastic days in Penang we chose our next destination:  Cameron Highlands. We bought tickets in a minvan and hit the road, literally. And yes, our driver was a nutter. He picked us up almost one hour late from our hotel and it seemed like he really wanted to catch up with time. He didn’t speak a single word of English and drove us to the destination like Vin Diesel drives in “Fast and Furious” but instead of Ferrari we had a shitty mini-van and the road wasn’t anything similar to a Formula 1 circuit. Curves, bumps and more curves, road works at every corner, massive trucks to almost impossible to overtake… He didn’t stop beeping at everything he saw on his way and brake at the same time. The result of his shockin driving was a massive headache and a stomach ache just like you get riding a roller coaster. Four hours later our feet touched the ground, a such simple thing made us so happy.

Cameron Highlands is a place of mountains and hills in central Malaysia. The climate changes drastically, it is quite cold comparing to average temperatures close to shore. The wet and “cold” climate turns everything green creating a perfect place to grow tea.

Two main companies use these lands to plant and harvest their tea here: Boh and Bharat. 95% of their production is exported to foreign countries making these two enterprises one of the most important sources of income for locals. The other one is tourism drawn to tea plantations and their impressively beautiful and unique landscapes so many people feel tempted to visit. When you look at them it seems like you are in a museum admiring a painting. It is that perfect that it looks unreal. We had the opportunity to visit Boh factory and partly learn the process of tea production (We say partially because, unfortunately, they were carrying refurbishment works on site) and at the end of the visit enjoy a delicious cup of tea in a cafe with views over the plantations. Stunning, both prices and vista.

Another great thing to do in Cameron Highlands is mountain and mossy forest trekking. The latter was so damp and muddy that we ended up completely wet and dirty but had so much fun, we felt like kids again, it was definitely worth it. You can also find here the biggest flower in the world, Refflesia Arnoldii grows in the local forest but,unfortunately, it wasn’t the season for it and we didn’t see it.

And here is some pics from our trekking through the mountains.

Sadly, we cannot prize everything up there. On the other side of the fence there is a massive devastation of lands and the pollution that comes along with it. Both, Strawberry and Tea plantations and the uncaring methods the locals practice, are destroying such a beautiful landscape. We were very upset when we saw the damage the humans have made to Earth. On top of that, there is massive collection of garbage everywhere, especially in rivers and along the roads and the worst thing about is the fact that no one cares about it. We had many chats with various people over a bottle of Chang were we share our worries about it. All had the same feelings about it. It definitely had a massive impact on all of us. Personally, the bigger impact made on us the fact that there is nothing that can be done to stop it. Government knows about it but, apart little fines issued to local business, does nothing to change it. Sorry, they are "trying" to cease the spinning wheel but the incomes are stronger then the concerns about environment pollution and in the end nothings is getting done... No comment... 

 
 
 

Respect to Heroes - Thaipusam in Penang

Thaipusam festival is one of those things that you experience by chance, one of those things that you get to know because you are in the right moment and at the right place. Prior the visit, we had no idea what this celebration was about. Definitely, this is one of the beauties of travelling, the fact that on your path there are a lot of surprises you don’t expect at all. Sometimes the surprises are not positive at all but on this occasion the final balance was... BIG PLUS!

El festival de Thaipusam es una de esas cosas que tienes el placer de experimentar por pura casualidad, simplemente por estar en el momento justo en el lugar adecuado. Antes de esta experiencia no teníamos ni la más remota idea de qué tipo de celebración se trataba. Definitivamente estos hechos inesperados son una de las cosas más gratificantes del viajar. A veces las sorpresas que te llevas no son tan agradables pero el balance final del “todo” no podría ser más positivo.

When we decided to visit Penang, after many recommendations from travellers and our Malay friend, the motivations were the street art (we will talk about this in another post) and the best food in entire Malaysia created by the mixture of different cultures sharing the town. And we got there just in time, on the 1st of February and just two days later Penang expected the biggest Indian Festival of the year, the Thaipusam that was attended by around 1 million people.

Cuando Robert y yo decidimos que visitaríamos Penang tras recomendaciones tanto de otros viajeros como de nuestro amigo malasio Albert,  los motivos eran su arte callejero (hablaremos de ello en el próximo post) y  por ser el lugar para degustar la mejor comida de todo Malasia, producto de la mezcla de diferentes culturas. Lo que no sabíamos es que íbamos a llegar justo a tiempo para ser testigos del festival hindú más importante del año en el cuál se esperaba la participación de nada menos que un millón de personas.

Why an Indian Celebration in Malaysia? The reason is simple, there is a large Hindu community living in the country but the truth is that many non-Hindu join the festival each year, mainly Chinese living locally and many foreigners with roots in Penang and passers-by, like us, creating not just a religious event but a celebration of cultural interest. And we are not surprised because the festivity is full of colours, energy, music, gifts and most of all flagellation which had the biggest impact on all visitors, a jaw-dropping scenes.

¿Y por qué un festival hindú en Malasia? La razón es muy sencilla y es porque hay una gran comunidad india viviendo en el país. La celebración a día de hoy no solo es seguida por los tamil (grupo étnico de India y Sri Lanka) sino por otras comunidades indias, un gran número de chinos que residen en Penang y muchos otros viajeros curiosos como nosotros. El caso es que esta festividad que tiene lugar cada año desde hace más de 100 años,  ha adquirido un gran  interés cultural. Y no es de extrañar porque las calles se llenan de colores, música, ofrendas, mucha energía y de devotos auto flagelándose que desde luego le dan el toque más morboso al asunto.

The festival is a religious event, stretched over a few days that celebrates the victory of Lord Murugan, a son of Shiva, over Surapadman devil. The Lord is known as the symbol of virtue, bravery, youth and beauty. Hindus believe that He is the dispenser of favours, hence many devotees ask for favours and repay him through offerings (milk, flowers and food) and self-mortification.

El festival de carácter religioso celebra durante tres días la victoria de Lord Murugan, hijo del Dios Shiva, sobre el diablo Surapadman. Murugan es símbolo de virtud, valentía, juventud y belleza. Los hindús creen que es un dador de favores. Es por ello que muchos devotos le piden ayuda y a cambio le llevan sus ofrendas (principalmente leche, flores, dinero y comida) y los más valientes se auto flagelan.

The Devotees prepare themselves for the ceremony a few days before by fasting and meditating to disconnect their soul from the body and enter a trance-state that helps them to be fully connected with the Gods. On the main day, they pierce their tongs and cheeks not to be able to talk, attach skewers and hooks to their body and put on a Kavadi (a burden), a construction weighting up to 40 kilograms and reaching up to 4 meters. They walk barefoot following a silver chariot carrying the Lord Murugan pulled by bulls to the temple on top of the hill. The path to the temple is washed with the waters from tons of coconuts that pilgrims smash against the ground just before the approach of the chariot. In the temple, the Lord is finally rested and washed with the milk brought by the pilgrims. Here, completely exhausted devotees arrive at their destination where they make their vows and are blessed by the Lord.

Los devotos comienzan la preparación días o incluso semanas antes de la fecha con ayuno (o reducción parcial de la ingesta haciendo solo una comida al día y a base de vegetales), abstinencia sexual y meditación con el fin de purificar cuerpo y espíritu y obtener una estrecha conexión divina hasta alcanzar el trance. Una vez llega el día muchos de ellos se atraviesan las mejillas y la lengua con barras metálicas con el fin de no hablar, se clavan pinchos y ganchos en la piel y por último se colocan en sus hombros una pesada estructura llamada “kavadi” que puede llegar a pesar 40 kilos y medir hasta 4 metros de altura y que muchas veces va unida a la cintura con una especie de anzuelos que clavan en sus carnes. Caminan más o menos unas 15 horas con pies descalzos sobre un asfalto que quema debido a las altas temperaturas mientras siguen con paciencia el carruaje que transporta la figura de Lord Murugan y que es tirado por toros hasta llegar al templo emplazado en lo alto de una colina. El camino que va desde el centro de la ciudad hasta el templo es empapado con el agua de toneladas de cocos que los peregrinos lanzan contra el suelo al paso del carruaje. Cuando finalmente Lord Murugan llega a su destino su figura es bañada con la leche que las gentes cargaron como ofrenda al Dios. Aquí, completamente exhaustos, terminan su andadura, hacen sus votos y finalmente son bendecidos.

It’s a bizarre event. Many scientist and doctors have watched over the devotees but they could never find the explanation to why they don’t bleed from the pierced skin, tongs or cheeks. It’s believed that they use ashes that stop the bleeding. Devotees themselves say that they are protected by the Lord whom they are connected with throughout the ceremony and they don’t feel the pain. It definitely takes some special “powers” and state of mind to be able to survive the process. Days of not eating prior, self-mortification, carrying kilograms of heavy Kavadi and walk barefoot on a cooking from the extreme heat road, it can only be done by super heroes! Respect!

Una curiosidad añadida a todo este acontecimiento es que a día de hoy, científicos y profesionales de la medicina no encuentran explicación al no sangrado de las perforaciones, ya sean en el cuerpo, mejillas o lengua. Se cree que puedan ser las cenizas con las que se untan previo proceso pero los creyentes mantienen que es Lord Murugan el que les exime de dolor y sangrado alguno. Nosotros pensamos que deben de tener un tipo de “poderes especiales” para sobrevivir a semejante proeza. Ayuno, auto flagelación, llevar a hombros durante horas el pesado “kavadi” y caminar con pies descalzos en un suelo que podría ser el del mismísimo infierno definitivamente es obra de súper héroes. Nuestros respetos para ellos.

Y con esto y un bizcocho… hasta el próximo post!

Un besín y gracias por seguirnos.